Hanging with Higgins

I was going to write about our last day in Palermo, but I realise that if it takes me three days before I have time for each new post, we will be here for a long time. Thus, the Amalfi Coast…

We arrived in Salerno after an overnight train ride, so I was a little tired and grumpy. But, the blue of the ocean and the fresh air cheered me right up. Our Canadian-Italian hostess (Dianne) had given us really good instructions on how to find her apartment, and it wasn’t long before the strangest pet I have ever seen was introducing herself. This is Higgins, Dianne’s ‘cat’:


Higgins is eighteen years old, tiny, and prone to sneezing fits. Each one feels as though it might finish her off, and it is quite unnerving eating breakfast whilst she quivers at your feet.

Anyway, Dianne was lovely, and her neighbourhood was a great spot. Crowds of sunburnt apartment buildings watch over a concrete piazza full of old and unshaven men in corduroy caps playing cards and (of course) smoking. Laundry and children hang everywhere, and the shopkeepers yell at each other over the buzzing traffic.

From there it is a pleasant-ish walk down a long seafront to the ferry terminals. I think this walk has a lot of potential, but Dianne explains that the local council has to fight two battles to clean it up. Firstly, the local mafia (the Camorra) own the refuse management contracts for the area, and dump rubbish along the shoreline because they know no one will prosecute them, and secondly, Sorrento and Amalfi complain loudly when there is any possibility that lucrative tourism might be taken from their own gorgeously maintained seafront.

So, this pretty much sums up the Salerno coastline:


On the plus side, it means Salerno remains an affordable place to stay. And it is easy to hop on a ferry for the half hour ride to Amalfi. Here’s our approach from the ocean:


Unfortunately, we were a little early in the season for millionaires and movie stars (or millionaire movie stars) – but this glamorously tranquil spot was a wonderful place to spend an afternoon. Lucy and I were even compelled to turn tourist and buy local souvenir type things like ceramics and limoncello.

The public beach was tiny, so we spent most of our time wandering the piazza and market lanes. I am amused to report that the most photographed thing in Amalfi wasn’t the glorious golden Duomo, the patchwork of terracotta buildings, the pretty view up the coast, or some of the funky pottery. It was this, in a grocer's doorway:


Sigh.

Truly a hard life

Having had another rather grim breakfast, we made the most of the market at the end of the street to stock up on actual food like fruit, vegetables, salamis and bread. I even let some guy who obviously thought I was stupid scam me just to have an authentic experience! Anyway, it was a very busy street, and a wonderful slice of community life:


With a decent picnic and good weather ahead of us, we boarded the bus to Mondello. No words needed as to why:


The beach was empty and almost all ours, save for loud American teenagers flirting and generally being American (“Oh, my god, he is SO cute, he was SO totally hitting on me…”). We found a spot on the warm sand a wee way away from them and settled in. Lucy turned our shopping into a feast:


So, we just sat in the sun, ate and read our books for a bit. After a while, Lucy felt it was warm enough to get her bikini on, and a man called Frank decided he would come over and say hello. (I’m not suggesting the two are related, but…) I also thought I should take a dip in the Mediterranean:


Eventually, having exhausted ourselves with all the leisurely nothing, we said goodbye to Frank (poor Frank) and wandered up towards the more commercial part of Mondello for a look around. Being the off-season it was just the right sort of crowded and the cafes were doing a roaring trade.

We found a sunny spot from where to watch the crowd and eat tiramisu. Shortly thereafter we hatched a plot to hire a seaside apartment for a week and kidnap my brother to cook for us. (I’ll let you know how that goes….)

Being away from the hustle of Palermo, I had forgotten it was Good Friday – but was reminded fairly authentically upon our return by the re-enactment of Christ’s Passion that was going on in the piazza beside our B&B. Earnest-faced men were carrying enormous wooden and glass boxes with mannequins of Jesus and Mary in them. Each box took 32 men to lift above their shoulders and they could only walk ten steps or so at a time before they had to stop. A man with a clacker coordinated the up and down to prevent anyone stepping on anyone else. There weren’t many people involved aside from the box carriers, the brass band (which played ‘How Great Thou Art’) and a ten year old playing Jesus, but it felt like they all really meant what they were doing.

It was an interesting end to the day.

Meeting the Mafia

Only a masochist would make their first trip to Rome during Easter, so we headed further south to Sicily, and the town of Palermo.

Palermo was warm but shabby. Apparently, Mafia corruption has thwarted any attempt at civil regeneration, as mafiosos pocket (as consultancy fees) most of the funding sent by UNESCO for construction projects. Whether this is true or not, Palermo looked very poor from the moment we got into town. It is also quite large; it took a long time to get from the airport to our B&B, and our hostess (Claudia) was not impressed by our late arrival. Put off by her manner, we dumped our gear and made a dash outside for dinner.

Somehow we wandered into a lively but small piazza surrounded by kebab bars. A jazz triplet busked for us as we ordered food poorly but drank beer well. I know you won’t believe me, but it was all actually very tiring. So, once it started raining we took this as our cue to leave and headed home, where we gladly fell into bed.

Sadly, sleep had done nothing to improve out hostess’ mood, and the breakfast on offer did nothing to improve mine. Claudia had furnished us with prepackaged rubbish – those horrid budget pastries, sugary ‘juice’ and the most amazing ready-made toast. (Note: amazing is not the same as delicious.) It was like the worst of the hostel food I had in the States, and these were not hostel prices!

So... we again left the B&B with the air of escapement, and headed off for the train station. On the way we passed a few reminders that language differences render some things quite amusing:


Anyway, childish sniggering aside, our plan for the day was to head to Agrigento - a town famous for its ‘Valley of the Temples’.

The Valley is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and a very cool spot. The undulating ridgeline is small and soothing, and the ruins were golden in the late afternoon sun. It felt what I imagine a tourist-free Athens or Rome might be like. I was really pleased to have made the effort to see it.

This is the largest and most famous of the temples. Of course, the construction pixies were following me:


As well as being places of worship, the temples were also a welcome beacon for soldiers returning from the many wars needed to defend Sicily. When lit up, they are able to be seen from miles away. And the reverse view from temple to ocean was pretty good too:


Aside from the temple busily being cleaned in preparation for the on-season, there were plenty of other gorgeous monuments at which one could look. This is a nice and crumbly one...


Up close, one gets a better idea of what time, wind and pollution have eaten away:


Walking from one end of the site to the other at sunset was quite special. And, having seen some excellent Sicilian countryside, we decided adventures outside Palermo are a good idea. Thus, a trip to the beach was planned for the next day…

A bit more about Firenze… with photos :-)

We were staying at convent in the middle of town. As the world appears to be running out of nuns, turning a convent into a hostel seems a brilliant idea to me. And, with their history as living spaces for real people, the facilities are much better than the usual sparse hostel rooms. But, for some strange reason there was an abundance of bathrooms in the hostel – we had sixteen on a floor with only twelve rooms?? Strangeness aside, it made a very good base for exploring Firenze.

Here is one of our quiet and pious (and I assume she is also exceptionally clean?) hostesses pottering in the garden:


The Duomo in the centre of town is my favourite building of the whole trip. It is a geometrically patterned marble monster, that totally dominates the area in which it sits. I have thought other Italian buildings washed out by the high-rises etc around them, but Firenze’s cathedral totally rocks. It is a huge building, so I didn't get any really good shots. But, there are plenty elsewhere. (Unfortunately, like other monuments, it is impossible to enjoy without attracting the ministrations of beggars. Grr.)

Moving onwards, we spent a long time in a queue for the Uffizzi Gallery. This was one of the highlights of planning my trip, but I had ended up not knowing anything about how to get in or whatever. So, we just took our chances and only had to queue for two hours.

The gallery is exactly as I expected, and the collections are amazing. However, after so many rooms and hallways they all look a bit commonplace. The only exception to 'fabulousness fatigue' were the paintings with wars and dead bodies etc; those were unexpectedly interesting! After a few hours and dollars spent inside, it was something of a relief to be back in the sunshine. And, luckily for me, there were plenty more gory arty things to look at there too:


From the gallery we wandered across Ponte Vicchio, a gorgeous bridge with houses falling off both sides. A total tourist trap - cue requisite photo:


On the other side of the Arno (yep, same river as in Pisa) we found ourselves at the Palazzo Pitti – which used to be the palace of the Pitti family (rivals to the Medici who set up the Uffizzi). Ironically, after a few generations the palace was actually sold by a Pitti to a Medici. Feudal significance aside, the building was nice enough, so we stopped for lunch outside. (Lucy's amazing travellers' salads are all that is keeping me vertical in this carbohydrate-rich country!)

From the Pitti Piazza we wandered further away from the town centre, and just when we were deciding it was time for some shade, came across the Boboli Gardens. The gardens are actually the southern end of the huge Pitti complex, so we ended up visiting it after all (and paying E12 just to sit amongst some green). Lucy went one way and I went another. I think she just sat and read, but I explored all the walkways and formal areas and got a great view:


I also found some cool modern sculpture amongst the 1458 originals:


A very pleasant afternoon ended with some food in a fairly generic restaurant, a dairy-free gelatto on the wander home, and a rather tired, poor and sunburnt girly falling into her single bed.

On reflection, this was my favourite day of the whole trip. But, as you'll see from the things I have still to write about, there was some stiff competition...

Home and away

We left Pisa easily enough – the only hurdle the icky old man on reception trying to charge me more than agreed (sadly for him, this Information Professional carries copies of everything!) then calling me a sugar momma for paying for both Lucy and myself…

The train trip was good – the Italian countryside is quite pretty, and we got into the really good wine country quickly. Our host (David) picked us up from the Figline Valdarno station. He was a real contrast to the Pisa hotel staff – very friendly, charming and happy. Unfortunately, all the "che lavora fi?" etc ran out and language barriers rendered it a quiet journey to his vineyard.

Agriturismo Savernano was the find of the trip – it is unlike the usual homestays in a few ways, mainly because you can stay for just one night if you wish. However, it does the have the usual gorgeous outlook, nice family and great food. And, because it was the off-season, we got the whole guest area to ourselves. Divine.

This is the view of the house from the olive groves:


And the view over the hills to the nearest town:


After storing our luggage away, Lucy and I took a stroll around the grounds. I was content to sit reading by the pool, but Explorer Girl wandered all over the place, and met up with the older and younger generations of the family fishing together at the bird pond.

Since the kitchen was shut for the off-season David then kindly drove us to a nearby restaurant. In Italian I could only just follow, he gave the staff strict instructions to call him when we were finished – I think he was worried we’d wander off and get lost in the fields!

This was a really fun, very Italian countryside kind of place. You could tell they didn’t get many non-Italians, and there was none of that tacky stuff to try and attract tourists. We got a waitress who was very happy to practice her high-school English, and the three of us had a fun time trying to sort out the huge menu. I totally enjoyed the intersection of enthusiasm, interest and a little bit of language this required, and it is true that the most important thing in another country is to smile a lot. It makes a big difference. Anyway, surrounded by tables of twenty, we somehow managed to inhale three courses each, and a bottle of local chianti all by ourselves. (Being a bit drunk, I suddenly found it MUCH easier to speak Italian.)

Lovely David picked us up afterwards and by the time we got back to Savernano he had offered to show us his wine cellar. There were eight or so vats, and we got to taste the velvet coloured liquid in them. It didn’t taste very nice, but it was easy to understand which of the flavours were going to change over time and turn into yummy wine. I also learnt that winegrowers often shoot wild boars, who eat the grape vines – David showed us the chain and drain he uses to turn pest into proscuitto in his slaughter room.

After that, the travel finally took its toll (nothing to do with wine and tiramisu!) and we stumbled into the fabulous, pillowy king size bed for a loooong sleep. This was the view from our room the next morning (with mist floating in over the valley):


Getting up in time for breakfast was a close call, but I guess when you are the only guests it is easy for the hosts to know what you’re doing. We feasted on scrambled eggs (so fresh and yellow they seemed neon), house cheeses, fresh juices from the orchard and delicious breads. Feeling all carnivorous, I was excited to be served a big plate of home-cured proscuitto, and it was delicious.

For the rest of the day we just sat in the glorious sun and considered our good fortune. However, soon enough it was time to head back to the station for the trip to Firenze. I'll write more about that later...

Pisa pics

I am safely returned home to London. It has been an amazing trip and I am sorry I was not able to write about it as I went. But, I kept a journal... and had my camera. First slice of Italian life; Pisa.

Pisa was quite pretty, and very relaxed. The town's two main industries are a university and an architectural error. So, it is a small town really, and the main focal point in the area (at least for locals) is the promenades and piazzas alongside the Arno River. It is quite a pleasant spot:


Just north of the river is where we had our first shopping experience at a very earnest organic market. This is the doorstop Lucy bought:


Somewhat fortified by at least a kilo of cheese, she and I wandered through cute streets to the Campo dei Miracoli ('Field of Miracles') to gawk at the Tower. My photo makes the Field look quite small, but it is actually a rather large few acres with lush lawns and these enormous marble buildings:


Mind you, the Leaning Tower is much smaller than I thought it would be - only eight or so storeys high.

After a wee while being a tourist, and dodging the very persistent handbag sellers, we decided we liked it better on the south side of the river. So, we wandered back along different streets, and I took this shot in an alley behind the main artists' village:


I thought it captured nicely the quaintness of Pisa (all the university students ride bicycles. so they are parked everywhere) with the modern plague of graffiti that was affecting everywhere (even gorgeous old statues raised in honour of city fathers are covered).

Overall, Pisa was a good first stop in a new country. I got a gentle introduction to speaking Italian, and there were enough English-speakers around to help when needed. Also, the tiny, ancient streets made me feel very cosy and welcome.

From a very pleasant Pisa we 'went country' - deep into Tuscany...

Firenze!

Ciao! I am navigating the vagaries of an Italian website to try and post this via email...

Firenze has been an unusual experience. It was an immediate change from the tranquility and beauty of the countryside, as the central station is in the noisiest part of the city. Lucy and I had a lunch break on the lawn at the front of the station to get our bearings and absorb some of the gorgeous sunshine. A woman spied us from at least 100 metres away and sent her sweet and curly haired boy over to beg, but I was more interested in speaking to him in Italian (his name is Peteara and he is four). Bad luck for Mum, but fun for me.

Sadly, this kind of thing has been very common in Florence. Whereas in Pisa people are selling you rubbishy goods for small change, here it is direct requests for money. Lucy had a woman stand directly in the way of a photo in the hopes of getting money out of her. This wasn't something I expected in a European country...

On the positive side, of which there is plenty, the Duomo, the Uffizi Gallery and the Palazzo Pitti have been gorgeous and fun. I enjoyed the Uffizi very much, and was surprised to find myself drawn to the more gruesome paintings, instead of Boticelli's nudes etc. I was amazed how many different ways one can render a headless corpse... Anyway, I spent waaay too much money in the souvenier shop, and have been surviving on pizza and beer ever since.

Yes, it truly is a tough life....

This morning Lucy and I have said goodbye to the nuns and checked out of the convent. We're going to dawdle some more through the piazzas before taking the plane to Palermo in Sicily.

Ciao!

Italy has been amazing so far. I am sure the red moon we saw on our train to Stansted airport was a good omen, as everything has gone smoothly and enjoyably.

Pisa was warm and wonderful. We arrived at the central station to find the hotel was only a 100 metre walk - which was good as my backpack was getting very heavy. After checking in (without anyone blinking an eye at two women sharing a room, thank goodness) we strolled north towards the Campo dei Miracoli.

I had a lot of fun coordinating my somewhat meagre map with the actuality of fabulous Italian streets and squares. Having made it halfway, we decided to stop at the organic market just over the river. I was already having fun with my Italian, and managed to order Lucy a ginormous doorstop of a sandwich that was more cheese than bread and looked delicious. As for me, the artisans had pictures of the happy wee piggies in their stys to reassure me the food was original and natural... but I found it a bit tough to look a piglet in the face as I ordered the end product!

Meandering onwards, we passed the Pisa Botanical Gardens and a lot of very touristy pizza restaurants until turning a corner and hitting the Piazza. It was amazing to see the Duomo that accompanies the Leaning Tower, and astonishing to see so many people in one place. Everyone was taking the classic Pisa photo to make it look as though they are holding up the tower, and from the reverse angle it looks like a field of tai chi. Hilarious stuff.

One effect of the crowds was the amount of touts and aggressive keepsake sellers - and I didn't really enjoy that. I quickly learnt some Italian of my own - 'Lasciami in pace' - Leave me in peace! I think most of them are illegal immigrants, selling their wares on opened bed sheets and scooping them up for a quick getaway when the polizia appear. It was phenomenal the effect a siren had on the alleyways - empty immediately.

After dawdling home through the back streets (and loving everything) we had an early night at the hotel. I had been doing my best to speak Italian as often as possible, and having two or three complete conversations in a day is as tiring as it is exciting.

The next day we headed to Tuscany for a stay at a vineyard. Words fail to describe the wonderment of all that, so I will wait until I can upload some photos for you all. Overall, Italy is a dream come true and it seems weeks since I was in London.