Ach aye the noo!

I am not sure a mixed dorm is a good idea. Coming back from my shower to find seven frat boys sitting on the bunks, drinking beer and spitting (tobacco?) into a bin between them, I decided to put my headphones on, read and write and pretend they weren't there. In fact I am very lucky (from an anthropological point of view), because the music was not loud enough to drown out their conversation and I am now able to report some unique insights into what men (boys?) talk about when they think no women can hear. Sadly, they talk about women with exactly the sort of language one fears. Has feminism hit Wisconsin yet? These boys need some enlightening...

Anyway, they eventually went out to do some damage to the streets of Edinburgh and I slept peacefully until the morn.

I took a stroll to the Castle, but was too early for both farmers' markets so wandered with hunger in my belly up to the tour company. We left almost immediately and my hunger pangs were totally neutralised by the scenery. Edinburgh is wonderful. My guide (in obligatory kilt!) explained all the various Scottish sights and it was very interesting. Weirdly, he had a thing for speed and red light cameras, and pointed them out whenever we would pass by (why? are they Scottish?).

We departed Edinburgh to go north into a beautiful autumn day. I took heaps of photos, but I think this is one of those times one just has to be there. We stopped at a place called Glencoe ('valley of weeping') and learnt all about the massacre of the MacDonalds by the Campbells (or Wallaces, or Duncans or whomever...) whilst taking touristy photos in front of mountains and waterfalls. This is an extremely dramatic piece of countryside - the mist lies very close to the ground, the mountains look especially ancient, and the utter isolation of it all creates a terrific atmosphere. It was FREEZING, but being outside in the air, the massive empty space and the mists made me feel wonderful.

Once back on the bus, the guide played us a few folk songs about more murder and mayhem between the clans. It was all quite good, and a fitting soundtrack for the drive. Eventually we stopped for lunch at Loche Linnhe beside Ben Nevis, which is the highest point in all the Britsh Isles. (It looked to me like a large and lumpy upside down mudpie.) Naturally, the tourist shops nearby make a HUGE deal out of it, and I found myself eating Ben Nevis Broth for lunch whilst sitting betwixt mountain and loch... lovely.

I will leave my account of Loch Ness etc until later, as I must get going for my bus to London. I am looking forward to seeing more countryside - I have really enjoyed the fresh air and the different type of light that exists up north.... the change in temperature is a wonderful experience as well. Seriously.

There's nothing quite like travelling... onwards.......